Argentina is a land of massive distances and even bigger flavors. While it has a reputation for being pricey, savvy backpackers can still navigate this stunning country by utilizing the 'blue dollar' exchange rates, eating world-class street food like choripán, and hopping on reliable intercity buses. This route takes you from the cosmopolitan capital through the colonial heartland and up into the high-altitude Andean north.
By staying in social hostels, using public transit, and prioritizing free cultural walking tours, you can experience the 'Paris of the South' and the wild landscapes of the Sierras and Andes for a fraction of the typical tourist cost. Prepare for long bus rides, late-night dinners, and some of the most hospitable locals in South America.
The Itinerary
Day 1: Buenos Aires, Argentina - The Heart of the Capital
Plaza de Mayo
Start your journey at the political heart of Argentina. View the iconic Casa Rosada and the Metropolitan Cathedral for free. This is the best place to understand the country's complex history.
San Telmo Market
Wander through the oldest barrio in the city. On Sundays, the street fair is legendary, but on weekdays, the indoor market offers affordable empanadas and vintage browsing.
Puerto Madero Walkway
Stroll along the renovated docks and cross the Puente de la Mujer. It’s a free way to see the modern side of the city and enjoy the breeze off the Rio de la Plata.
Choripán at Costanera Sur
Head to the ecological reserve entrance to find 'carritos' selling the best choripán (sausage sandwiches) in the city for just a few dollars.
Day 2: Buenos Aires, Argentina - Culture and Cemeteries
Recoleta Cemetery
Visit the final resting place of Eva Perón. While there is a small entry fee for foreigners, the architecture and history of this 'City of the Dead' are unparalleled.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid
Step inside what is often called the most beautiful bookstore in the world, housed in a converted 1919 theater.
Palermo Soho Street Art
Take a self-guided walking tour through Palermo to see world-class murals and enjoy the trendy (but free to look) boutique windows.
La Bomba de Tiempo
If it's Monday, don't miss this percussion show at Konex. It’s a budget-friendly rite of passage for every backpacker in BA.
Day 3: Buenos Aires, Argentina - Colorful La Boca
Caminito in La Boca
Explore the famous bright-colored houses and watch street tango dancers. Stick to the main tourist paths for safety and to save on transport by taking the 'Colectivo' (city bus).
Parque Lezama
A local favorite spot for mate drinking. Grab some pastries (facturas) from a local bakery and join the locals on the grass.
National Museum of Fine Arts
Enjoy one of the best art collections in South America. The permanent collection is free for everyone on certain days—check their schedule!
Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur
A massive green space perfect for a sunset walk or bike ride, offering a quiet escape from the city noise.
Day 4: Rosario, Argentina - The Riverfront City
Bus to Rosario
Take a 4-hour bus from Retiro Station. Argentina's long-distance buses are comfortable and offer a great view of the pampas.
National Flag Memorial
Visit the massive Monumento a la Bandera, the symbol of the city where the Argentine flag was first raised.
Costanera Stroll
Walk along the Paraná River. Rosario has kilometers of parks along the water, perfect for budget-friendly relaxation.
Pichincha District
The hippest neighborhood in town. Find a local 'bodegón' for a massive portion of milanesa to share with new hostel friends.
Day 5: Rosario, Argentina - History and Parks
Che Guevara’s Birthplace
See the apartment building where the revolutionary was born. While you can't go inside, the surrounding area is a historical landmark.
Parque de la Independencia
Rosario’s largest park, featuring a lake, rose garden, and several museums. It's the perfect spot for a cheap picnic lunch.
Museum of Contemporary Art (MACRo)
Housed in colorful former grain silos on the riverfront, this museum is as striking on the outside as it is on the inside.
River Sunset
Head to the 'Balneario La Florida' area to watch the sunset over the massive bridge connecting to Entre Ríos.
Day 6: Córdoba, Argentina - The Colonial Heartland
Bus to Córdoba
A 6-hour journey west. Córdoba is Argentina's second city and a major student hub, which means great prices for food and nightlife.
Plaza San Martín
The historic center of the city. Visit the Cathedral and the Cabildo, both standing since the Spanish colonial era.
Manzana Jesuítica
Explore the Jesuit Block, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Most of the architecture can be admired from the street for free.
Dinner in Nueva Córdoba
This neighborhood is packed with students. Look for 'menú del día' or cheap pizza joints for an ultra-lean meal.
Day 7: Córdoba, Argentina - Student Vibes and Markets
Paseo del Buen Pastor
A former prison turned cultural center. Check out the dancing fountains and the beautiful Capilla del Sagrado Corazón.
Sarmiento Park
A massive urban park with a Greek theater and plenty of shade. Great for a long afternoon of budget reading or people-watching.
La Cañada Stroll
Walk along the stone canal that runs through the city. It’s an iconic piece of Córdoba’s urban landscape.
Feria de Güemes
On weekends, this artisanal market is the place to be. Even on weekdays, the neighborhood is full of quirky shops and affordable bars.
Day 8: Alta Gracia, Argentina - The Che and Jesuit Trail
Local Bus to Alta Gracia
A short 45-minute local bus ride from the Córdoba terminal. It's a cheap way to see a more rural side of the province.
Museo Casa de Che Guevara
Visit the house where Ernesto 'Che' Guevara lived as a child. It’s an essential stop for history buffs.
Jesuit Estancia of Alta Gracia
Another UNESCO site located right in the middle of the town. The church and grounds are incredibly well-preserved.
Tajamar Lake
Relax by this 17th-century artificial lake built by the Jesuits before catching the bus back to Córdoba.
Day 9: Mendoza, Argentina - Into the Wine Country
Bus to Mendoza
A 10-hour day bus or overnight bus. Watch the landscape change from the green Sierras to the arid, mountainous vineyards of the west.
Plaza Independencia
The massive main square of Mendoza. Often features live music and artisan stalls in the evening.
Aristides Villanueva Street
The nightlife hub. While some bars are pricey, there are many 'happy hour' deals for local craft beer and wine.
Hostel Asado
Many Mendoza hostels offer a weekly communal asado (BBQ). It's the cheapest way to eat high-quality steak.
Day 10: Mendoza, Argentina - Parks and Peaks
Parque General San Martín
This is one of the largest and most impressive city parks in the world. Spend hours walking the gates and the rose garden.
Cerro de la Gloria
Hike up to the summit within the park to see the massive monument dedicated to the Army of the Andes and get a view of the city.
Mercado Central
Head here for a budget lunch. Try a 'sandwich de milanesa' or local cheeses and olives for a picnic.
Wine Shop Tasting
Instead of a pricey tour, visit a local wine shop in the center that offers affordable tastings of regional Malbecs.
Day 11: Potrerillos, Argentina - Andean Views
Bus to Potrerillos
Take a public bus from the terminal to the Potrerillos Dam. It takes about an hour and costs very little.
Lake Potrerillos Hike
Walk around the turquoise reservoir surrounded by the snow-capped Andes. It’s free and breathtakingly beautiful.
Picnic by the Water
There are no cheap restaurants here, so bring your own supplies from Mendoza for a lunch with a million-dollar view.
Return to Mendoza
Catch the afternoon bus back. Rest up for the long journey north tomorrow.
Day 12: On the Road - Northward Bound
The Epic 18-Hour Bus
This is the longest leg of the trip. Use the time to catch up on sleep and enjoy the changing scenery towards Salta.
Pampas Scenery
Watch out the window as the vineyards give way to the rugged desert and red rock formations of the north.
Bus Stop Snack
Argentina bus stations often have surprisingly good and cheap empanadas during short stops.
Night on the Bus
Argentina's 'Cama' seats reclining almost 180 degrees, making it a viable (and budget-saving) replacement for a hostel night.
Day 13: Salta, Argentina - The Colonial North
Arrival and Plaza 9 de Julio
Drop your bags at the hostel and head to the main square, one of the most beautiful in the country, flanked by colonial buildings.
MAAM (High Altitude Archaeology Museum)
A must-visit to see the 'Children of Llullaillaco,' perfectly preserved Incan mummies. The entry fee is modest and well worth it.
Cerro San Bernardo
Skip the cable car to save money and hike the 1,000+ stairs to the summit for a panoramic view of the Salta valley.
Peña Itinerante
Look for a local 'Peña' (folk music hall) away from the main tourist strip on Balcarce street for cheaper prices and authentic music.
Day 14: Purmamarca, Argentina - Seven Colors
Bus to Purmamarca
A 3-hour local bus ride into the province of Jujuy. The town is famous for being at the foot of the Hill of Seven Colors.
Paseo de los Colorados
A free 3km walking trail that loops behind the town, taking you through stunning red rock canyons.
Artisan Market
The central plaza is filled with high-quality Andean textiles. It's often cheaper here than in Buenos Aires.
Local Bus to Tilcara
A quick 30-minute ride further up the Quebrada de Humahuaca to the town where you'll base yourself for the next two nights.
Day 15: Tilcara, Argentina - Incan Ruins
Pucará de Tilcara
Visit this reconstructed pre-Inca fortification. It offers great historical context and views of the valley.
Mercado Municipal de Tilcara
Eat where the locals eat. Grab a bowl of 'locro' (sturdy corn stew) or 'humitas' for a few hundred pesos.
Garganta del Diablo Hike
A moderate hike from the town center to a dramatic waterfall. It’s a great way to experience the high-altitude landscape for free.
Town Plaza Music
Spend the evening in the plaza. There is almost always a group of locals playing charangos and guitars.
Day 16: Humahuaca, Argentina - The Hornocal
Bus to Humahuaca
The final push north. This town is the highest and most traditional on the route.
Serranía de Hornocal (14 Colors Mountain)
Split a 4x4 taxi at the bus station with 3 other backpackers. It's the only way to reach this 4,700m viewpoint, and sharing the cost makes it very affordable.
Monument to Independence
Climb the massive staircase in the center of town for a view over the dusty, beautiful streets of Humahuaca.
Hostel Chill
Spend your last night sharing stories and cheap Quilmes beer with fellow travelers in the communal kitchen.
Day 17: Salta, Argentina - The Final Send-off
Bus back to Salta City
A final 4-hour ride down the valley. Use this time to organize your photos and finish your travel diary.
Convento de San Bernardo
Admire the oldest religious building in Salta, famous for its hand-carved carob wood door from 1762.
Souvenir Shopping at San Martín Park
Pick up some last-minute spices (pimentón is famous here) or a cheap leather belt before heading to the airport.
Transfer to Salta Airport (SLA)
Take the local bus (Line 8A) to the airport—it's significantly cheaper than a taxi and very reliable.
Best Time to Visit Argentina
The best time for this specific backpacking route is during the shoulder seasons: Spring (October to November) and Autumn (March to May). During these times, the weather in Buenos Aires is mild, the vineyards in Mendoza are vibrant, and the northern deserts aren't too hot. Summer (December to February) can be incredibly hot in the north and humid in Buenos Aires, while Winter (June to August) can be quite cold in the high-altitude regions like Salta and Jujuy.
Currency & Money
Argentina has a unique financial situation. As of late 2023, the 'Blue Dollar' or 'MEP' rate offers nearly double the value for your foreign currency compared to the official rate. It is highly recommended to bring crisp, high-denomination USD bills and exchange them at 'Cuevas' (unofficial exchange houses) or use Western Union to send yourself money for pickup. Credit cards are now often processed at a favorable MEP rate, but cash remains king for getting the best prices at local hostels and street food stalls.
Getting Around Argentina
Intercity travel in Argentina is dominated by a fantastic long-distance bus network. Buses are divided into 'Semi-Cama' (standard) and 'Cama' (wide, reclining seats). For long hauls like Mendoza to Salta, paying a few extra dollars for a 'Cama' seat is worth it as it saves you a night's hostel cost. Domestic low-cost airlines like Flybondi and JetSmart have made flying competitive with bus prices if you book weeks in advance. Within cities, the 'SUBE' card is essential for using the cheap and efficient public bus and subway systems.