18-Day Central Middle East Northern/Scenic Route: Iraq, Jordan & Lebanon in July
Forget the endless desert dunes; this 18-day epic journey focuses on the 'Northern/Scenic Route' of the Central Middle East. We traverse the towering Zagros Mountains of Iraqi Kurdistan, the biosphere reserves of Jordan, and the dramatic cedar-lined gorges of Lebanon. Designed for the hardcore budget backpacker, this itinerary prioritizes $5 hostel beds, $1 falafel wraps, and free natural wonders.
Traveling in July means heat in the cities, but our route escapes to the highlands where the air is crisp and the vistas are green. You will utilize shared taxis ('garages'), budget regional airlines, and local buses to keep costs at an absolute minimum while maximizing cross-border cultural immersion.
The Itinerary
Day 1: Erbil, Iraq - Arrival & Citadel Views
Erbil International Airport Arrival
Touch down in the capital of Iraqi Kurdistan. Take the airport shuttle to the city center to avoid high taxi fares.
Erbil Citadel (UNESCO)
Explore the world's oldest continuously inhabited settlement for free. Walk the perimeter for panoramic views of the city.
Qaysari Bazaar
Get lost in the labyrinthine alleys. Grab a snack of Kurdish cheese and samoon bread for less than $1.
Shar Garden Square
Join locals drinking tea by the fountains. A glass of tea costs roughly $0.25.
Day 2: Erbil to Akre, Iraq - The Fire City
Shared Taxi to Akre
Head to the 'Garage' and find a shared taxi to Akre, one of the most scenic towns in the region built into a mountain.
Akre Old Town Hike
Hike the steep stone stairs of the old town for incredible views of the valley. It costs nothing but sweat.
Local Street Food Feast
Find a local 'shawarma' stand. In Akre, prices are even lower than Erbil; a full meal is about $1.50.
Zarka Waterfall
Visit this nearby natural cooling spot. It is a favorite for local families during the July heat.
Day 3: Akre to Rawanduz, Iraq - The Hamilton Road
Drive the Hamilton Road
Take a shared transport through the most scenic road in the Middle East, carved directly into the limestone cliffs.
Bekhal Waterfall
A massive waterfall gushing from the mountain. Entrance is free, and the mist provides a natural AC in July.
Rawanduz Canyon Overlook
Walk to the edge of the Gali Ali Bag canyon. The scale is comparable to the Grand Canyon but without the crowds.
Backpacker Guesthouse
Check into a local family-run guesthouse. Many offer floor mats (traditional style) for a few dollars.
Day 4: Rawanduz to Sulaymaniyah, Iraq - The Cultural Hub
Southbound Shared Taxi
A 3-hour journey through the mountains to Sulaymaniyah, the most progressive city in Iraq.
Amna Suraka (Red Security Museum)
A free museum housed in a former prison. It is a sobering but essential look at local history.
Azadi Park
Relax in the city's largest green space. Perfect for people-watching and a cheap picnic.
Goizha Mountain Sunset
Take a cheap taxi to the top for a view of the entire city lights. Bring your own tea.
Day 5: Sulaymaniyah - Nature & Lakes
Dukan Lake Trip
Take a local minibus to Dukan Lake. It is the largest lake in the region, surrounded by rolling hills.
Lakeside Picnic
Buy supplies at the Sulaymaniyah bazaar for $2 and eat by the water.
Suly Museum
The second largest museum in Iraq. A treasure trove of Mesopotamian artifacts for a nominal fee.
Salim Street Walk
Join the youth of Suly for a walk down the main evening thoroughfare. Street food is king here.
Day 6: Iraq to Jordan - Trans-Regional Flight
Flight to Amman
Fly from Sulaymaniyah or Erbil to Amman, Jordan. Booking in advance is key to staying within budget.
Downtown Amman (Al-Balad)
Check into a hostel in the old city center. Beds here can be found for $7-$9.
Hashem Restaurant
Eat at this legendary spot. A full meal of hummus, falafel, and tea costs about $4.
Amman Citadel Sunset
Walk up the hill for a view of the Roman Theatre and the sprawling white city.
Day 7: Amman to Jerash, Jordan - Northern Ruins
Local Bus to Jerash
Head to the North Bus Station and take a local coaster bus for less than $1.50.
Roman City of Jerash
Spend the day exploring the 'Pompeii of the East.' Use your Jordan Pass to save on the entry fee.
Olive Groves of the North
Walk the hills surrounding the ruins for a scenic view of the northern Jordanian countryside.
Return to Amman
Catch the last bus back to the capital and grab a $1 'Arayes' (meat stuffed pita).
Day 8: Amman to Dana Biosphere Reserve
JETT Bus to the South
Take the tourist bus or a local van toward Dana, Jordan's most scenic mountain village.
Dana Village Exploration
An ancient stone village perched on a cliff. Most of the village is free to wander.
Wadi Dana Trail
Start a self-guided hike into the valley. The geology changes from limestone to sandstone.
Hostel Dinner
Many Dana hostels offer a communal 'Zarb' dinner for a small fee. It’s the best way to meet other travelers.
Day 9: Dana to Petra - The Scenic King's Highway
Shared Transport to Wadi Musa
Coordinate with your hostel for a seat in a shared van down the King’s Highway.
Wadi Musa Arrival
Check into a hostel in the upper town; prices are much lower than those near the Petra gate.
Little Petra (Siq al-Barid)
Take a free shuttle or hitch a ride to Little Petra. It’s free to enter and far less crowded.
Mountain Viewpoint
Hike to the ridges above Wadi Musa for a free view of the sun setting over the Petra mountains.
Day 10: Petra - The Rose Red City
Early Entry to Petra
Beat the heat and the crowds. Walk the Siq to the Treasury before 7 AM.
The Monastery (Ad Deir) Hike
Climb the 800 steps for the best mountain views in Jordan. Bring your own water to save $3 per bottle.
High Place of Sacrifice
Take the steep back route for incredible scenic vistas that most tourists skip.
Budget Falafel Dinner
Eat at the local stands in Wadi Musa town center to keep your daily spend under $15.
Day 11: Petra to Wadi Rum - Desert Mountains
Bus to Wadi Rum
Take the early morning bus from Wadi Musa directly to the Wadi Rum Visitor Center.
Shared Jeep Tour
Join a group of 6 to split the cost of a desert tour. See the Burdah Rock Bridge.
Sand Dune Scramble
Climb the red dunes for a free view of the 'Mars-like' landscape.
Star Gazing at Camp
Sleep in a basic Bedouin tent. In July, many prefer sleeping outside under the stars for free.
Day 12: Wadi Rum to Amman - Return North
Morning Camel Trek (Optional)
Or walk back to the village (6km) to save money and enjoy the silence of the desert.
Bus back to Amman
The long ride back north. Use this time to rest and recharge your devices.
Rainbow Street
Explore Amman's trendy district. Window shopping is free, and the views from the cafes are great.
Hostel Social Hour
Connect with travelers heading to Lebanon to share tips on the next leg.
Day 13: Jordan to Lebanon - The Flight to Beirut
Flight to Beirut
A short 1-hour flight takes you from the desert to the Mediterranean coast.
Hamra District
Check into a budget hostel in Hamra, the intellectual and bohemian heart of Beirut.
Raouche Rocks
Walk the Corniche to see these iconic limestone formations for free as the sun sets.
Barbar Street Food
Eat at Lebanon's most famous budget eatery. A Manousheh (thyme pizza) is around $1.50.
Day 14: Beirut to Qadisha Valley - The Sacred Mountains
Minibus to Bcharre
Take a local van from Dora Station. It's cheap and a great way to see the coastline.
Bcharre Village
The gateway to the scenic Qadisha Valley. Visit the Gibran Khalil Gibran Museum for a few dollars.
Cedars of God (Horsh Arz el-Rab)
Walk through the ancient cedar forest. Some of these trees are over 1,000 years old.
Valley Rim Sunset
Watch the mist roll into the deep gorge—this is the 'Northern/Scenic' peak of the trip.
Day 15: Qadisha Valley - Monastery Trekking
Hike into the Gorge
The hike from Bcharre down into the valley is free and offers breathtaking cliffside views.
Monastery of Qannoubine
Discover ancient monasteries carved directly into the rock faces of the valley walls.
River Cooling
The river at the bottom of the valley is ice-cold, perfect for a July dip.
Local Village Dinner
Eat locally grown produce. Lebanon's mountain villages offer the freshest, cheapest salads and labneh.
Day 16: Bcharre to Byblos - Ancient Coastline
Descent to the Sea
Take a minibus from the mountains back down to the historic port city of Byblos (Jbeil).
Byblos Old Souq
One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities. Wandering the cobblestone souq is free.
Byblos Public Beach
Avoid the expensive beach clubs and head to the public pebbles for a free swim in the Mediterranean.
Harbor Walk
Watch the fishing boats come in. Grab a $2 fish sandwich from a local vendor.
Day 17: Byblos to Beirut - Urban Exploration
Return to Beirut
The final minibus leg. Watch the dramatic change from ancient ruins to modern high-rises.
Sursock Museum
A beautiful contemporary art museum in a stunning mansion. Admission is often free or pay-what-you-wish.
Mar Mikhael Mural Walk
Explore the street art and creative galleries in Beirut's most vibrant neighborhood.
Farewell Street Feast
Visit the 'Lakkis' or similar for some final authentic Lebanese sfeeha (meat pies).
Day 18: Beirut - Final Souvenirs & Departure
National Museum of Beirut
Spend your last few dollars on a world-class collection of sarcophagi and mosaics.
Last-Minute Spice Shopping
Head back to the local market for some Za'atar to take home.
Airport Bus
Take the local #4 bus to the airport vicinity for a few cents and walk the final stretch to save $15.
Departure
Final flight out, ending an 18-day epic journey across the high peaks of the Middle East.
Best Time to Visit Middle East
For this specific Northern/Scenic route, July is a unique time to visit. While the lowlands and deserts experience extreme heat (often exceeding 40°C), the mountainous regions of Iraqi Kurdistan, Northern Jordan, and Mount Lebanon remain significantly cooler and pleasant. July also coincides with various local summer festivals in Lebanon and Kurdistan, where you can witness traditional music and dance for free in public squares. If you prefer milder weather throughout, consider May or October, but July is the best time for high-altitude trekking and avoiding the winter snows that can block mountain passes.
Visas & Border Crossings
Navigating the Middle East requires careful planning. Iraqi Kurdistan offers a separate visa-on-arrival for many Western nationalities (different from Federal Iraq). Jordan offers the 'Jordan Pass,' which includes the visa fee if you stay for at least three nights. Lebanon typically provides a free one-month visa-on-arrival for many passport holders. Note: You cannot enter Lebanon if your passport contains an Israeli stamp. Always check the latest entry requirements for each specific country at least two weeks before travel, as regional policies can shift quickly.
Getting Around Middle East
The most cost-effective way to travel between these countries is via regional budget airlines like Pegasus, Air Arabia, or FlyDubai. Within the countries, 'shared taxis' or 'servis' are the standard; these are cars or vans that depart only when full and are significantly cheaper than private hires. In Jordan, the JETT bus system is excellent for connecting major tourist sites. In Lebanon and Iraq, local minibuses (vans) are the cheapest option, though they lack fixed schedules. Always negotiate fares before starting your journey to ensure you stay within your lean $17.36 daily budget.
